Woke up to the sweet sound of waves breaking along the shoreline meters from my Bure. Considering we are located on a coral fringed lagoon, the sounds of waves breaking on the shore is the indicator that the surf will be pumping. Went around and woke all the guest up to prepare them for some of the best surf they might ever experience. Before venturing out I made a quick smoothie from Papayas and Bananas grown right here in front of the rooms and local grown guava juice to prepare me for the day. We passed J’s (peeling right hand reef break that is unforgiving if you find yourself stuck on the inside for it is less than a meter deep with a sharp coral bottom) on the way out and because of its closing end section we decided to go check out Fiji Pipe. We arrive to 6-8 ft and occasional 10 ft perfect barreling lefts that would spit out into the channel. We surfed for about 6 hours before having to retire due to pure exhaustion and hunger. Luckily only 3 out of the 6 people got cut up on reef. I put just a small hole in my heel from trying to jump off the bottom after being pumped on a closeout. George who was using a go pro camera on the inside and was dragged on the bottom and sliced his leg open pretty deep. Paul landed some nice scratches all down his arm from brushing the coral heads. It was so good that I probably caught over 50 barrels in 6 hours and only got 2 closeouts. Overall it was a epic day in Fiji.
